Update: Aug 1,2023: Thanks for your interest in our services.  Our company’s restructuring is taking longer than anticipated so thanks to our existing customers and potential new customers for your patience while we complete the necessary final tasks.  Please stay tuned!

Frequently Asked Questions

How long will it take to do the “revival” work?
This will depend on the scope of the work. An average (25-30 sq m) straight-forward nailed deck can be sanded and coated in just one day. We are able to work quickly because of the experience of our technicians and the high level of investment in our specialised equipment. The coatings we use are innovative and quick drying, so there is no need to wait 24hrs between coats.
Can you assess what is going on with the supporting structure, under the decking boards?
The scope of our trade license does not extend to work on sub-floor structures. We always recommend that, if you are unsure of your structure’s safety and stability, you have a structural engineer or appropriately qualified person assess the structure before any cosmetic improvements are made by us. We do not accept any liability for the integrity of the structure and may require you to have a professional assessment done to certify the structure’s integrity.
Are you appropriately licensed and insured?
Yes, we are licensed with the NSW Office of Fair Trading and have the necessary business insurances in place.
I have to have the work completed by a particular date. Can you guarantee your start times and completion times?
The main factor that plays havoc with our schedule is the weather! If it is too hot, coatings cannot be applies and the same applied if it is raining or the weather looks unsettled. So, if the weather is consistently ideal, then we will perform your work as scheduled. Otherwise, you will be phoned to organise a new time. Also, if you are hosting an event, you need to allow enough time for the deck to fully cure before it is exposed to heavy foot traffic. (This is between 5-7 days depending on weather)
What coatings do you use? Are they safe around kids and pets?
We have tried many different coatings and have seen the results of different coatings (usually when we have rescued DIY jobs-gone-wrong!), and we prefer acrylic, semi-transparent, water based coatings. We have conducted our own independent tests at an internationally well known weathering station in Townsville to ensure we use the most durable products. The types we use, not only penetrate into the timber, but also offer a protective layer on top of the timber, whilst still allowing the grain of the timber to show through. They are usually low VOC and only require a light wash and top-up for maintenance. They last 4-5 times longer than traditional decking oils.
How can I make sure I will be happy with the colour of the timber after it is coated?
As part of our service, we are willing to sand off any old coatings or weathered timber to reveal the natural, healthy timber hue. We then discuss your preferences and apply some samples of coating from which you choose your specific coating.
How long does it take until we can use the deck, once you’ve completed the work?
The surface, in ideal conditions, can be gently walked on in bare feet or soft shoes after 24hrs, but we do not recommend re-furnishing your deck until at least 5 days after, with 7 days being optimal.
Do you offer a guarantee?
We guarantee our workmanship and give our clients a two week window, upon completion, to notify us of any concerns they may have about the application or finish. Returning to a job usually occurs because rain has fallen on the new surface before it was water resistant. We can’t guarantee how long the coating will last as each deck is unique in its age, timber-type, level of damage from weathering, weather exposure, amount of foot/pet traffic, type of structure, etc.. After our initial treatment, it is advisable to conduct a routine 12 monthly inspection. Best protection is ensured if the timber finish is recoated before deterioration of the coating and timber underneath occurs.
Isn’t it cheaper to do it myself?
Firstly, most decks are nailed and before sanding, all the nails need to be punched down. You would need to do this by hand as it is not possible to hire the machine in which we have invested for this purpose. Secondly, the types of floor sanders you can hire are expensive and best suit interior (softer) timber floors. Our machines are very powerful and designed to make short work of sanding toughened, weathered exterior hardwood. Also, the consumables (sandpaper etc) are very expensive if you need them on a small scale. We buy in bulk and at trade rates so we can pass on some savings to you. Thirdly, unless you are fit and used to being on your hands and knees for prolonged periods of time, you will need to take plenty of breaks, which will increase the amount of time it will take you to get the job done. Lastly, unless you have extensive experience, like our technicians, you will probably be slow and could easily make a mistake and may need to start the job all over again. So it might be helpful to consider our service as an investment in your property, which will improve the value of your property, and increase the life and facility of your deck or outdoor structure.
What is the best way to get a quote or price estimate?
With technology improving so many aspects of our lives, we use it to help you get a quote as quickly and easily as possible. Just take some digital photos with your phone or camera and determine some approximate measurements and the upload your information with our “Quick-E-Quote” form ****(click here). Our head technician will call you to discuss your requirements and supply a written quote accordingly. It may be possible to give estimates with an initial phone call, but completing the “Quick-E-Quote” will be more reliable.
Is there a minimum charge? How do you work out your charges?
Yes, there is a minimum charge for an initial treatment which is $800.00 inc GST. We do not charge a call out fee for Sydney Metro properties. For horizontal deck surfaces and vertical privacy screening/fencing is charged by the square meter, so when you supply your dimensions, we can determine the area for you. Handrails and deck trims are charged by the lineal meter. Steps, stairs and other structures (such as BBQ areas, built-in timber seating, posts, pool housing, etc) are charged per item as seen your photographs. Our standard service is provided (which includes two layers of coating to only the top surface of the decking boards or top/accessible surfaces to other structures) unless our Premium service is requested (which attracts an additional charge). Additional charges are also made when access to the work site takes longer than the standard allocated time (usually due to excessive stairs up/down or the need to use inclinators or lifts), or if on site parking is not available.
What coating and treatment options are there?
We have some preferred coating options as we are confident in how certain coatings perform and these are also easy to continue to use for future maintenance. We can discuss your requirements and prescribe the best treatments and coatings for your specific needs.
Will I be able to easily maintain it myself once the deck has had its initial treatment?
Yes. Many of our clients ask us to help them to get their decks restored or finished, so that they can continue the maintenance (a simple wash and top-up) themselves. Otherwise, you can call on us to perform the maintenance for you.
How often will it need to be re-coated after the initial treatment?
We recommend a minimal annual inspection, but some decks may need re-coating sooner, others may last longer than 18-24 months. It is very important not to leave the re-coating so long that the existing coating starts to break down as sanding may be required and this will become a more expensive maintenance path.
Can’t you just wash the deck and not sand it, to make it a less expensive process?
Yes in some situations this is an option. If the visibility of the grain in not so important a scrub clean/re-coat option is possible and a far cheaper solution. However the best result, for worn and weathered decks, is to sand off the old coatings and oxidised timber surfaces. Pressure washers (when used at the high pressure required to have any effect of removing any surface coatings) will often damage the timber surface so we do not recommend the use of them, except at very low pressure for general timber washing.
Why do you need to punch the nails down? Will it damage the timber?
Before the deck can be sanded, the nails (if the deck is nailed, not screwed) need to be punched approx. 2 mm below the surface of the deck so that when the deck is sanded, the heads of the nails remain in tact. Should the heads be sanded off, the boards will loosen and lift up. This punching-down process cannot be avoided, and whilst most decks are not negatively affected by the process, sometimes the timber around the nail hole can develop tiny splits. This can occur on none of the boards, just a few boards, or many boards and it is difficult to predict on which boards this will occur, as the timber type, age and condition of the timber interact to determine the likelihood of the splitting effect. Unless the deck is being viewed from very close to floor level, these tiny splits are not particularly noticeable and do not detract from the overall improvement of the look of the deck, especially once the deck is coated
My deck has stainless steel screws and a few of them stick up above the surface of the deck. What will happen if they are sanded?
We do not remove screws and attempt to reseat them below the deck surface as this is a very time consuming process and not cost-effective for the client. It is more cost effective to sand over them and we just end up shredding more sandpaper than usual.
What are your payment terms?
We require payment in full immediately upon completion. Payment options are normally direct deposit.
Will there be mess and dust when you sand the deck?
Our equipment is the best, leading-edge technology available and, for the sanding that produces the most dust, we have full extraction systems attached. We remove from the site, at the end of the job, the bags of dust and any other rubbish we generate. The site is left neat and clean.
How much equipment is there and what kind of access do you need?
Many of our clients are surprised at the amount equipment which is used for resurfacing and coating exterior timber. We use a range of compressors, nail punch guns, large upright floor sanders, hand-held sanders, detailing/edging sanders, dust extraction machines, painting equipment, etc. The ideal access is a level path from a close parking spot, at least 900 mm wide, with exterior access to power and water.
How many decks have you revived?
Since 2006, we have resurfaced over 3000 decks, with most of our new business coming from referrals and the internet.
My property is located out of the Sydney area. Will you service me here?
We are currently servicing the areas from Newcastle to Woolongong and west to the Blue Mountains. We consider “out of area” jobs on a case by case scenario and a call-out rate maybe charged accordingly.
What’s is the best option between real timber and WPC timber?

There is great debate about what is best between real timbers (grown from a tree) as opposed to WPC (wood plastic composite) timbers. Firstly let’s look at what is WPC timber?
Wood-plastic composites (WPCs) are a man-made timber which include the use of wood fibre/wood flour and plastic…these includes PE, PP or PVC plastics. Chemicals and pigments are added and then extruded into planks. The ratio to wood floor-plastic can vary but normally its 45-65% wood to 65-45% plastic. The quality of the product can vary on the amount of wood content and quality of the plastic.
Pro’s and Con’s of WPC decking

Pros of WPC:

  1. The main advantage is that WPC requires less maintenance i.e. does not need to be re-coated on a regular basis and should be more durable. However it is not “maintenance free”.
  2. It is meant to be resistant to rot and decay from borers and termites.
  3. It made using recycled plastic such as water bottles etc., so are often considered better for the environment.

Cons of WPC:

  1. It does not look like timber. With its beautiful variations in grain and colour, real timber always has a premium look and feel.
  2. It is not as strong as hardwood timber and requires the framework bearers to be closer together to support the WPC planks.
  3. It normally becomes much hotter (in direct sun) than real timber and in hot countries this can make it difficult to walk on in bare feet, especially when used around pools.
  4. WPC expands and contacts (with heat) significantly which can cause problems with the fixings and gaps/ventilation of the decking.
  5. Most WPC can fade, scratch and mark very easily.
  6. Some cleaning agents can often mark the WPC.
  7. Water absorption can easily occur through the wood fibers, which in turn can cause fungal attack.
  8. Like all plastics exposed to weathering, WPC becomes porous over time.
  9. Although WPC requires less maintenance than real timber, it is not “maintenance free”. It has been found that most WPC decks require regular scrubbing to remove mildew. Also to maintain a fresh clean look you may need to clean/sand and coat with a stain and sealer once every few years.
  10. Generally WPC is a higher fire risk than real hard wood.
  11. Often more expensive than real timber.


Fill in your details to get a free e-quote within 48 hours.

"*" indicates required fields

Drop files here or
Accepted file types: jpg, png, gif, Max. file size: 2 MB, Max. files: 3.
    This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.